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Weeks 23 and 24
We have now completed the long drive from Norsemen to Ceduna. There was not a lot to see on the West Australia part of the Eyre Highway. We had a few free camps (Rest Areas) on the way across. They have been good camp sites –most of them have had plenty of room for quite a few RVs without being parked on top of each other and those that we have stopped at that have had facilities (i.e. toilets and dump points) have been good. I had heard that all these facilities were overused and to be avoided if possible. There doesn’t appear to be as many people travelling now. There have been anywhere from three to about 10 RV’s at each stop and even the Caravan Park we stayed at in Ceduna was pretty near empty the first night and probably still less than half full the second night.
Harms Lake Rest Area -Free Camp
On the way across from Norsemen we stopped at the Madura Lookout – I hadn’t realised that there was a high limestone plateau that ran quite a way along the route.
We also stopped at Eucla (we stayed overnight in the caravan park) to have a look at the Old Telegraph Station. There is not too much of it left anymore. It was quite a nice little caravan park for the remote location.
Once we crossed the border into South Australia we stopped at the Lookouts across the Great Australian Bight. There are only three Lookouts now. There were many more tracks from the highway down to the cliffs but they have all been closed off and you have to go to the three official Lookouts where they have built paths etc. I can remember last time we crossed the Nullarbor (although that was about 30 years ago) at some of the Lookouts you could see the cliffs going in both directions. Now, if you stay within the boundaries, you can only see the cliffs in one direction. I think they have spoilt it a bit
View from Lookout 2
View from Lookout 1
We also called in to the Head of the Bight Whale Watching Centre. Of course the whales had all headed off south about two weeks before but it is quite interesting and they have built good board-walks and Lookouts/viewing platforms there. It would be a great place to see the whales when they are about.
Head of the Bight
Gathering of Windmills - Penong. The only place the locals could get water was from a shallow underground water supply but each person had to put down their own bore with a windmill to pump the water.
We had a couple of days in Ceduna. Phil wanted to get the Toyota serviced and I needed to get the washing done (again) – it is a never ending chore. We thought Ceduna was quite a nice little town. We went to one of the oyster farms and bought some fresh oysters - $10 for a dozen (containing 14) schucked – not bad value and they were delicious.
McKenzie's Ruins - McKenzie was one of the first settlers in the area. His farm was at Denial Bay just a little west of Ceduna and he had quite a large complex. At the time the port was at Denial Bay but fell into disrepair when the more favourable port of Ceduna was opened.
We then went looking for some unusual rocks – firstly to Murphy’s Haystacks and then Pildappa Rock. .
They were both good – I actually think Pildappa Rock is more interesting than Wave Rock and much less commercialised. It came up very hot, very windy and flies galore that day which made it very unpleasant.
We camped at the Apex Park in Minnipa that night and there were lots of storms with thunder and lightning around. We didn’t get any rain and we heard next morning that some fires were started by lightning strikes a little further south so I don’t think there was too much rain anywhere.
Toilets at the Apex Park - not very subtle
Statute of the Australian Farmer at Wudinna
The Big Galah at Kimba
We have made it half way home
Metal statutes of Edward John Eyre and black-tracker Wyllie at Whites Knob Lookout at Kimba.
Iron Ore Mine at Iron Knob
Another sunset - this one is at the free camp at the junction of the Lincoln and Eyre Highways. It was extremely windy.
After all the times we have travelled on a very straight, flat road where it looks like the road disappears off the end of the world we finally found it.
It was then onto Eudunda just north of Adelaide to visit some friends from our cruise before heading into Adelaide where we stayed with some more friends (from Qantas days) - Phil and Rose. Whilst in Adelaide Phil very kindly drove us all around Adelaide sight-seeing; we took a free bus into the city for lunch and a walk around the Botanical Gardens; went for walks along Hendley Beach and photographed the sunset at the jetty; went up to Mt Lofty (Summit Lookout) and through the Adelaide Hills and had an authentic German lunch at Hahndorf as well as a walk through the quaint little town. The lunch was so big we asked for a ‘doggie bag’ and the sausages we took home were enough for our dinner and breakfast next morning! We also took the opportunity to catch up with some other friends who live in Adelaide and who we have not seen for some 30 years. It was really great catching up and remembering old times.
Adelaide Botanical Gardens
A Rose between two thorns - eh...I mean Phils
The Roses were beautiful in the Botanical Gardens as well as everywhere around Adelaide and all the places we have travelled through since leaving Port Augusta.
Some of the South Australia University buildings - they have some lovely old stone buildings.
Adelaide from the lookout at the Summit of Mt Lofty
Our Three Sausages lunch
Sunset at Hendley Jetty
More of Port Adelaide
It came time to say good-bye to our friends and Adelaide and we are now in Victor Harbour arriving here late this morning. We did our usual visit to the Information Centre before jumping on the Cockle Steam Train to Goolwa. It only runs on Sundays and Wednesday unless it is school holidays or high season. We only had enough time in Goolwa to go for a quick walk around their markets before hopping back on the train for the return journey. It was quite good as part of the track runs along the ocean front but it only takes about 30 minutes so is not a very long journey.
The Cockle Train
We are here for the next couple of days before turning north and home.